It was accidental tourism with a twist. Before the ink was dry on the new employment contract, there was a surprise order issued from the boss; a mandatory three month business trip to Paris. Paris, France, that is. Our bags packed, we were on that plane before anyone could change their minds, finally arriving in France 9 hours ahead of when we left.
With only a GPS stuck on French, with the surly-Frenchman-ranting-directions-between-cigarette-puffs, somehow we still managed to drive through the heart of Paris directly to our destination. We motored past L’Opera, Place de la Madeleine, Place de la Concorde, Le Louvre, and La Tour Eiffel in the distance. More accidental luck got us through all those crazy one-way streets to our apartment; espresso, croissants and the fact that it was Sunday, 6AM helped.
The apartment in the 8th arrondissement, close to L’Opera was the size of postage stamp. We quickly became accustomed to water closets and a minature kitchen. The two story tall window looked out over a cobblestone street. On the corner of Rue Joubert and Rue de Caumartin, we faced the beautiful Saint Louis d´Antin, a church built about 1775. The other end of our narrow Rue, opposite from the church, hosted very friendly street-walkers all hours of the day and night.
We were steps from a Monoprix; think Safeway on steroids. Just 245 steps away was Lafayette Gourmet. We could see Le Primtemps from our window. We were a short metro ride to the magnificent Bon Marche La Grande Epicerie. Think department stores with soul, fanciful socks and food.
The first week we’d eaten our way through almost every patisserie and brassiere nearby, and had explored each of the magnificent stores and their gourmet food offerings. Yet, for some inexplicable reason I wanted a burger. Our first meal where that was possible was in the rotunda at Printemps under the art nouveau dome (right). Tartare de boeuf préparé minute, et pommes frites. I used my terrible French to order what I thought was a rare hamburger and pommes frites. I asked for it medium rare, but I think that was lost in translation. I probably requested extra aioli.
The waiter reappeared way too quickly, danced over and swiveled the plate in front of me. I forgot all of the French I knew and said something like holy (bad word here). Did you forget to cook the thing? In front of me was a burger patty all right. It was agreeably huge and very much raw. Not rare. Just raw. Nicely garnished, with a fabulous side of pommes frites and yes, extra aioli, it was still a pile of raw meat.
It was a popular choice as I looked around at all the other impeccably dressed diners, happily eating raw ground beef. The only reasonable thing was to do what any mildly homesick person would do at that point; cry. Fortunately my dining companion, more fluent than I, explained that I was an American idiot. With apologies to the chef, could they warm cook the boeuf more than a minute? Perhaps even 5 minutes, si vous plait.
With that humiliating experience behind me, we explored the humble offerings from the Monoprix, which were by comparison to our groceries, anything but humble. Just the cheese selection alone would make Safeway blush. Next to three thousand types of yogurt there were desserts: flan, floating island things, custards, pots de crème, and more.
Swoon-worthy might not be strong enough to describe that taste and texture of what might be described as French cottage cheese; fromage blanc. It was not cottage cheese by which we measure cheese curd. It was something altogether different. Close to the texture of Greek yogurt. Not sweet, yet sublime enough to eat with fresh berries or fruit, along with a drizzle of honey.
Every evening we ate fromage blanc and berries. The berries in France are smaller and sweeter. No genetic modification that makes them huge and tasteless there. You can actually see them rotting over the course of a day. They will look perfect in the morning and by evening you know that they will not last the night.
Three months later, back home we searched, finding a couple of specialty dairies that made fromage blanc, or called it that. They are not the real deal.
Finally,voila! The source is New England Cheese Making Company. It worked so well that we ate the first batch in just two days. It is ridiculously easy to make and costs pennies compared to the boutique brands that are sold here – that don’t even get it right. Make this, and you will take a tiny virtual trip in a bowl to France with every bite.
You can buy the starter here and cheesecloth here.
Fromage Blanc with Summer Berries
Ingredients
- 1 Gallon of whole milk (organic is best)
- 1 packet of fromage blanc starter
Directions
Heat up milk in a large pot to about 80-86 degrees. Immeidately stir in starter, off heat until dissolved. Cover and let sit for about 14 hours on the stove top or counter.
Line a large colander with cheesecloth. Set a large bowl under colander. Spoon mixture into the colander and cover with a lid. Refrigerate and drain about 4 hours, but no more than 6.
Pour into a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Add some liquid (whey) if it seems dry. Should resemble the consistency of firm yogurt.
Cover and refrigerate. Makes a generous quart or more.
Notes: Buy organic milk, if possible. It makes a difference. Use whole or 2% but not nonfat. It is also forgiving if you get the timing off. The finished product only ages gracefully in the refrigerator so you have a good 2 weeks to consume what you make, but it won’t last that long.
Bon appétit
Comments
I am going to make the berry thing right now! I love Paris and all that it has and means. Great Post!
If I were ordered to Paris for three months.... I think I could bear it. =o) Assuming of course, that I'd suddenly been hired for a much better paying job than my current one. That fromage blanc looks delicieux , ma chere.
I remember my first glimpse of a Paris restaurant full of people eating Tartare de boeuf - I still say " ick" to that one!
I don't do cows milk, but I am wondering if the fromage blanc starter would work with goats milk? That would make my day - I miss out on all the creamy stuff.
I don't do cows milk, but I am wondering if the fromage blanc starter would work with goats milk? That would make my day - I miss out on all the creamy stuff.
Paris is a very powerful word in this household. Merci beaucoup.
Lovely!! One day I will go - and I'll have the fromage blanc like Lulu said I must! I've made cheese, but only the fresh types that don't require a starter. When things get back to normal here workwise, I'll look up that cheese company. (Have you read David Lebovitz's blog? It's French-swoony.)
back to the feed. anyone hungry?
I marvel this isn't on the cover, where it should be, and guest chef over on big Salon. Here's to more berries and Paris for the rest of us. Great article, Lisa.
MMMMMMMmmmmmmm yumm! Starts off with a travelogue truly inciting jealousy. Ends off with fromage blanc + berrie! My growling stomach thanks you!
Dave - thank you so much, and enjoy!
Shiral - it was a pretty great surprise. we couldn't pack fast enough.
Melissa - I bet it would be great. Email the cheese people. They know everything cheese. I love those guys.
Kathy - ours, too!
Bell - I have not, but will. Thanks!
Kathy - now that would make my day : )
Connie - thanks! I embarrassed myself regularly there, but we ate well.
Shiral - it was a pretty great surprise. we couldn't pack fast enough.
Melissa - I bet it would be great. Email the cheese people. They know everything cheese. I love those guys.
Kathy - ours, too!
Bell - I have not, but will. Thanks!
Kathy - now that would make my day : )
Connie - thanks! I embarrassed myself regularly there, but we ate well.
in my bag, going home, i smuggled buerre, real butter. it was so worth it.
smoooooooooooch!
hey everyone -- thanks to L&P, I now make my own fromage blanc at home :) she is pure genius!
hey everyone -- thanks to L&P, I now make my own fromage blanc at home :) she is pure genius!
Oooo, I just checked out the cheese making website! I have always wanted to make my own goat cheese, maybe I actually will.
well isn't this just an odd duck day?
appreciate you guys stopping by. I dedicated a tag to you, Ann. And Melissa - glad they have the goat milk stuff. They have a lot of different things.
dianaani - yeah, we brought home all kinds of stuff, too. no one makes butter like they do!
appreciate you guys stopping by. I dedicated a tag to you, Ann. And Melissa - glad they have the goat milk stuff. They have a lot of different things.
dianaani - yeah, we brought home all kinds of stuff, too. no one makes butter like they do!
Odd duck day, indeed. But we'll always have Paris.
Lisa, so delicious ! I will have to try this.
I would love to live in a Paris apartment for 3 months! When we spent a week there two years ago, we stayed in a small hotel in a residential neighborhood, skipped the hotel breakfast for a local market's baguettes, cheese and fruit and loved every minute of it.
l&p, I'm in France right now, and can attest to the quality of the cheeses and berries here. Bon Appetite!
Loved the article...doubt I'll make the cheese, but appreciate the fact you can!
Linda - thank you!
Cranky - I'd take even a week today. I miss the place and the food most of all.
voice - jealousing!
Buffy - it makes a ton - good for a party. and thanks!
And btw, did our editors get kidnapped? or what? ghost-town out there.
Cranky - I'd take even a week today. I miss the place and the food most of all.
voice - jealousing!
Buffy - it makes a ton - good for a party. and thanks!
And btw, did our editors get kidnapped? or what? ghost-town out there.
